Sri Lanka travel guide: Everything to know before you go

 Sri Lanka can be best described as south Asia in miniature form, filled with beaches, elephants, tea plantations, curries, sacred rituals, colourful ceremonies, and most of all, warmly welcoming people. Hailed as the “Pearl of the Indian Ocean” and the “Teardrop of India”, this ancient island nation has long been celebrated – and coveted – for its abundant landscapes, strategic significance, and rare beauty.

Sri Lanka’s past is remarkably well preserved, despite years of unrest and strife. From Victorian-era colonial clubs to centuries-old Buddhist temples, layer after layer of Sri Lankan history is within reach. Its natural heritage is rich, too. Ten national parks provide sanctuary for sloth bears to sambars, leopards to lorises, and of course plenty of elephants. For such a small island (roughly the size of Ireland), the diversity here is striking – you can climb mist-robed mountains, surf silvery shores, trek through abundant jungle, all in the same day.

Sri Lanka’s cities have that frenetic, cheerful chaos common to Asian cities, whether it’s Colombo’s colonial grandeur or Kandy’s exalted lakeside lifestyle. Either way, the coast’s serenity is never far, with some of the finest beaches in the world ready to embrace you: champagne-coloured sand, palms in regal repose, and the tropical waters of the Indian Ocean.

Best time to go

It depends on what you’re looking for. Thanks to its dual monsoon pattern, December-April tends to be best for beaches and wildlife excursions on the south and west of the island, while the dry months of May-September unlock access to the north and east.

Each side has its pick of stunning locations, and if you want to see both (without getting drenched) then September-October and April are the shoulder seasons for you, offering cooler temperatures, fewer tourists and excellent hiking opportunities. April coincides with the local new year celebrations, so be wary of increased congestion on the transport networks.

Top cities and regions

Kandy

Kandy is Sri Lanka’s beating heart: Holy town, hilltop enclave, and spiritual centre. Sri Lanka’s ancient customs and natural beauty come together here, with temples, shrines and palaces reflected in the glassy surface of the lake, hugged by hills as green as any you’ll ever see. Take the Main Line train from Colombo, wind your way up the mountains, and enjoy one of the world’s most celebrated railway rides. Kandy is where Sri Lanka’s kings resided, and it’s easy to see why; today, the entirety of Kandy is a Unesco World Heritage site.

Despite the crowds, be sure to visit the Temple of the Sacred Tooth, Sri Lanka’s greatest religious relic, and said to be from the Buddha’s own mouth. While you can’t see the tooth itself – only the case is on display – the temple itself is beautiful, with many chambers, galleries and artefacts. Go in the evening to witness the prayers and the candlelight. Further along the train line is Ella, where the British plantation owners once resided, and home to Ella Rock, whose summit is a challenging but reasonable hike (three–four hours).

Galle

Whitewashed, manicured, and orderly, Galle feels like a prestigious Mediterranean seaside resort. No wonder: it was founded by the Portuguese and expanded by the Dutch. Galle’s architecture and atmosphere have a distinctly European feel, from the prim and proper lighthouse to the austere Protestant churches. Gone are the laid-back surfer vibes of Weligama and Marisa, replaced by well-to-do couples, fashionable boutiques, and candlelit dinners.

Explore the well-preserved fort by daylight before taking a stroll down the tranquil lanes and avenues of the town itself. The seafood food is spectacular, the bars plentiful, and the nights balmy and untroubled. Just don’t expect much nightlife.

Colombo

Crowded, frenetic, and choked up, Colombo used to be dismissed as merely the place from which to fly in and out. But Colombo has history, culture and excellent food.

If you’re keen on colonial history, the city boasts some of the best-preserved architecture from anywhere in the former British Empire. If not, there are plenty of temples, museums, and shrines besides. Hop on a tuk-tuk and explore an anthology of Sri Lanka’s past: the mind-melting stripes of Jami Ul-Alfar mosque; the statues of the Gangaramaya (Vihara) Buddhist temple; and St Anthony’s Shrine, a Catholic church illuminated at night. Gathering these cultural riches is the Colombo National Museum, the biggest in Sri Lanka and featuring over 100,000 artefacts.

Anuradhapura and Sigiriya

The ancient city of Anuradhapura was abandoned in the 13th century, and was overgrown by jungle until the 19th century. Since then, it has flourished as a site for both Buddhist pilgrims and tourists, who flock to see the shrines and relics. One of the most visited is a sacred pipal tree, planted in 245BC from a cutting of the Bo tree, under which it’s said the Buddha attained enlightenment. It’s recognised as the oldest cultivated tree in the world.

Even more iconic are the Dagobas, the wide-domed Buddhist temples that dominate the city. Ruwanwelisaya, the oldest and the grandest, can get crowded. Instead, go wherever the ceremonies are taking place. Outside of the city lies Mihintale, a hilltop where the first Buddhist monastery is said to have converted a Sri Lankan king and his hunting party. The view from the peak of the hills is spectacular, but go at sunrise rather than sunset, or prepare to huddle among couples.

Just over an hour away is Sigiriya, a rock formation featuring an ancient fortress. It’s another Unesco site, and possibly the single most popular attraction in the country. Although entry is a little pricey (£25 for foreign visitors), it’s worth it. You’ll see ancient frescoes, the centuries-old Mirror Wall, and the enormous – scarcely-believable – lion’s paws guarding the summit (the remains of what was originally a towering stone lion). It’s 350-odd metres to the summit, so wear your exercise gear and prepare to sweat.